NO. 1 – PHILOSOPHY OF ISLAND LIVING



Test_Hydra, Greece

Hydra is one of the easiest Greek islands to understand and one of the hardest to forget. Close to Athens yet notably removed from mainland noise, it offers a car-free harbour setting where the pleasures are simple but refined: walking, swimming, long lunches, sea views, stone houses and evenings that feel polished without becoming flashy.

Donkeys on Hydra

Island character

Hydra’s appeal lies in its coherence. The harbour town is handsome rather than theatrical, with old mansions, narrow lanes, little rises above the port and a rhythm shaped by ferries, cafés, boat traffic and people moving on foot. Because there are no cars, the island feels calmer than most popular Greek destinations, and that changes the whole mood of a stay. Visitors tend to come here for atmosphere and style rather than for a long list of major sights.

Best for

Hydra works particularly well for couples, friends on a short break and travelers who value beauty, ease and a certain understated elegance. It also suits first-time visitors to Greece who want an island experience without planning a complex multi-island trip, since it can be reached relatively easily from Athens. For many people, Hydra is less about checking off attractions than about enjoying a very pleasing place well.

Not ideal for

This is not the right island for everyone. Families with very young children may find the rocky swimming access less convenient than on sandy beach islands, and travelers looking for bargain prices or resort entertainment may feel that Hydra gives more atmosphere than variety. Those who want to explore by car, see lots of inland villages or move constantly between different beach zones will usually do better elsewhere.

Things to do

Hydra’s pleasures are mostly about place rather than spectacle. Visitors spend their time swimming from rocks or small coves, taking boat trips, walking along the coast, looking into shops and galleries, lingering over meals and enjoying the harbour at different hours of day. A short stay can be very satisfying because the island does not demand an exhausting sightseeing programme; it rewards slowing down and settling into its rhythm.

Today’s life, culture and history

Hydra’s built environment and maritime past give it more depth than a simple pretty-island image suggests. The island has long been associated with shipping, prominent local families and preserved architecture, and in more recent decades it has also attracted artists, writers and style-conscious visitors. That mixture of heritage and cultivated atmosphere is part of what gives Hydra its enduring appeal.

What we think

Hydra is best understood as a place of mood, proportion and ease. It is not the Greek island with the greatest range of beaches, the widest list of attractions or the lowest prices, but for many travelers it offers something more valuable: a short stay that feels elegant, memorable and complete.

Where it is

Check out the big picture of where Hydra is…


Check out Hydra itself…


Getting there

Most visitors arrive by ferry from Athens, which makes Hydra a practical option for a short island stay before or after time in the capital. The journey is part of the appeal: the sense of leaving the city behind and arriving directly into a harbour with no cars immediately distinguishes the island from the mainland. Because Hydra is often combined with Athens or nearby islands, it works well in shorter itineraries.

Our preferred places to stay

For most first visits, staying in or very near Hydra Town makes the most sense. You are close to restaurants, harbour life, ferries and evening atmosphere, and you can walk out easily for swims or coastal strolls. Some travelers prefer a quieter property a little above the port, while others want to be right in the middle of the harbour scene; both approaches work, depending on how much movement and noise you enjoy.

Our preferred tables

The best places for memorable food are small tavernas, particularly those around a small central square where the small squid can be particularly fresh and exceptional whether grilled or deep fried.

Douskos. Bustling Xeri Elia – known as Douskos after the family who’ve run it for 200 years – is our top spot for traditional Greek food in Hydra, famed as a 1960s haunt of Leonard Cohen, who was pictured playing guitar against one of the white-painted trees outside. Set beneath a light-strung canopy of trees in the square, it’s a popular, lively spot serving simple, well-cooked Greek classics like grilled meats, moussaka and fresh fish, so…be prepared to wait for a table at busy times. Don’t miss the kleftiko – lamb and potatoes wrapped in paper and slow-cooked until it falls apart, with only a few made each day – and expect good value.

Kodylenia’s is a well-loved harborside spot in Kamini, reachable by a quarter-hour stroll or brief water taxi from Hydra’s main port, with a breezy wraparound terrace offering front-row views of passing boats. Casual crowds drop by throughout the day, while evenings turn slightly dressier and ideal for sunset dining; owner Dimitris has kept it running for a quarter-century, and while the service isn’t always consistent, the setting and cooking easily compensate. The kitchen shines with seafood — charred local squid, shrimp in a secret tomato sauce, harbor-fresh fish, and standout Greek and fisherman’s salads — all at reasonable prices.

Getting around

The key practical, and very unusual, fact about Hydra is that you move around on foot. There are also water taxis to some swimming areas and beaches, and the island is associated with donkeys for carrying goods and sometimes passengers, but walking is the real mode of transport. That means accommodation choice matters: if you stay uphill you gain views and quiet, but you should be comfortable with steps and short climbs. Your luggage can be carried by donkeys or strong folks with special mini-wagons. A truly distinctive experience.

Photo gallery

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